Welcome to Hearty K9s

At 3.5 to 4.5 weeks old, the pups are introduced to softened puppy kibble. Generally, by the time they're 5 to 6 weeks old, they're crunching hard kibble and do not need it softened anymore. The pups are given free choice here for their first 8 weeks and then fed 3 times daily.
I suggest you feed your pup 3 times a day until about 8 to 9 months old, or until yours doesn't want that middle feeding anymore, then twice a day until your pup is about 3 years old. From 3 to 8 years old, once a day is often sufficient, then after 8 years old go back to twice a day. This, of course, will vary with each dog, but it is a basic guideline.
It's good practice for the lowest human member of the family pack to feed the dog (perhaps the person who the dog often dominates). It's proper etiquette to have the pup/dog sit and wait until you put the bowl of food down and give the release command that they can eat. Allowing the dog to eat their food after you have finished your meal is also a good idea. These big things in the dog world help them see you as alpha.
We'll give you the name of the puppy food your pup is on when you come and choose your pup. We suggest you feed puppy food until the pup's first birthday, then slowly change your pup over to a quality adult formula.

Although at Hearty K9s, we have been very diligent in testing our breeding dogs for hip issues, there are some essential things that everyone should be aware of. This information and advice came from my vets.
Hip dysplasia in dogs is only less than 25% due to genetics! A good quality premium diet is vital, not underfeeding or overfeeding. Being overweight makes it very hard for a puppy to grow and develop joints. Please consult your vet to find the appropriate weight or body condition score for your doodle.
It seems to be common knowledge that long-distance running with your puppy is a big no. The repetition of running long periods damages growing joints, especially when they seem to be growing quickly and in a clumsy or awkward stage.
In the same way, allowing a puppy to go "full force" (off leash or in your backyard) for long periods when they are growing can also be damaging. As my vet said, "To many pups, offering them free exercise as much as they want is like giving a child a pile of candy and expecting they will know when to stop."
On the flip side, repeatedly creating a growing puppy (especially a large breed) for long days does not allow their growth plates to develop correctly.
Too much or too little exercise is as bad as too much or too little food for growing puppies -- we need to find a nice, happy, healthy balance.
Here are a few everyday things to consider for growing pups.
o No jumping out of vehicles or off couches, and too many stairs is not great either.
o Deep snow is understandably hard on joints for running pups.
o I often hear of injuries occurring when pups play with bigger dogs, just from too much roughhousing.
o A warm, comfortable place to sleep.
In general, moderation is the key. It is essential to be careful with the pups when they are in a clumsy stage or in a growth spurt.

Early spay and neutering is now considered another possible reason for joint and hip issues. The common recommendation is to wait until they are fully grown before they are fixed for small dogs, which could be around 9 months, and large dogs, about 14-20 months. Please consult your vet on this topic. With this comes extra diligence required to keep your dog from accidental breeding, as they will be sexually mature before they are fixed.

Words of Wisdom from a great trainer, Chad Mackin

Don't Look at the Dog! Look at Yourself! If you're a dog owner training your own dog or working with a trainer to get your dog trained, I have one piece of important advice,
Don't worry about what your dog is doing, worry about what you are doing.

You are learning a new skill set as you embark on your journey to a well-behaved, reliable, trustworthy pet. Whether this is your first or fifth time to train your dog, chances are you are learning or re-learning specific skills. Developing proficiency in these skills is the surest road to dog training success.

There are two learning curves present in every dog training relationship. The learning curve of the handler and the learning curve of the dog. The handler's learning curve is the most important because it ultimately defines the learning curve of the dog. This is true even for seasoned professionals. We are constantly learning, improving and growing (or at least we should be). With each dog, I try to make the training more manageable, smoother and clearer because if I do this, the dogs will learn faster, make fewer mistakes and become reliable faster.

It's easy to get caught up in what the dog is or isn't doing. It's hard to not get caught up in that. After all, that's the goal, right? -- to have a well-trained dog. But that's the paradox, the secret to having a well-trained dog is in the quality of the training. This is an important distinction.

While the training methods can be very important, the skillful application of the method is ultimately what makes it successful or not. Whether you're using a clicker, or a prong collar or anything in between, the best training approach in the world won't work if you're not using it effectively.

So focus on what you're doing. If the technique is right for the dog, and the application is good, the dog will improve. If the dog isn't improving, it means one of two things, either the approach is wrong for the dog, or you're not applying it effectively. But you can't possibly know which is which without first becoming proficient in the approach.
So practice, then practice some more. Become skilled with the exercises you're using and see what happens.

When I teach clients, I give them a specific response to each of the things that commonly go wrong. Then I tell them the dog getting it wrong is just part of their (the owners) learning experience. The dog getting it wrong means they need to clean up their handling a bit. It's not the dog being stubborn, disobedient or having an attitude problem. The handling isn't creating the change we want. Fix the handling and the dog will fix himself.

I see the wrong response from the dog as a sign that the training is incomplete, and I ask what I need to do to fix it.
Focus on being the best dog trainer you can be, and the dog will end up being the best dog he can be! So don't worry about what the dog is doing. Worry about what you are doing, and the dog will get better.

Foundational Training, Heather Arthur

We never know how our spoiling, permissiveness, or lack of accountability will rear its ugly head. Or how tiny, easily dismissed, moments of rudeness become a gateway for rotten behavior that seems entirely unrelated.

How could the demand for attention (barking, pawing, or nipping), and our subsequent indulgence lead to resource guarding? Or how could barreling out of the crate or through doorways without consideration lead to reactivity? Or how can pacing, spinning, barking, and excessive non-stop arousal lead to severe separation anxiety?
Because here's the thing... it's ALL connected.

Every single interaction carries with it information about who we are and how our dog should behave around us. A life filled with endless pampering, oodles of unearned privileges, and loads of freedom and liberty, all create a lifestyle rich for taking advantage, & an atmosphere that feels like no one is in control.

Where there is a void in believable authority and leadership, you will find a host of seemingly disconnected issues. The funny thing is, we don't get to choose HOW a lack of leadership shows up for our dog. His personality, genetics, temperament, and demeanour all meld with what we have to offer and can manifest into a range of annoying to dangerous behaviour.

A life that offers believable leadership, non-negotiable rules for right and wrong, predictable routine, and dependable structure, by and large, will produce a dog who seems transformed... where a dog held accountable for blasting out of his crate no longer resource guards his food. Or a dog who no longer whines and panics when his owner gets up to use the restroom because rules are now prioritized over freedom and affection.

ANY and ALL misbehavior, no matter if annoying or dangerous, is a symptom of a life lived without structure, rules, and accountability. Pair the lack of this dimension with overindulgence, and we will produce a plethora of dog related issues... we just never know which ones.
Heather Arthur

I would like to share lots of advice with you…but here are a few brief tidbits. I have taken many extensive dog training courses in Alberta. BC and in the USA, in hopes of being able to help my clients have the best possible experience with their pups. I will share them with you to help you establish a good relationship with your dog and perhaps answer some questions in advance.

• • Be Prepared! Have a plan for house rules. What verbal and non-verbal commands will you use? (Make lists and put them on sticky notes around the house.) Develop and ensure consistency with the whole family. The pup will learn much faster. (Inconsistency fosters stubborn behaviour). Use a confident voice with commands and a firm/low voice with reprimands. Remain calm and confident. Saying "no" in a higher melodious tone means nothing or "Yes" to the dog.
  • The timing of your praise and command is crucial. When the pup is in a good position on the leash and happens to look at your leg to see where you are at, that is the time to say, "Good heel!" or click if you are using a clicker.
  • Do not try to have a training session with your puppy when you are not in a good headspace, upset about your day or feeling ill. You must be fully present, engaged and focused if you expect the pup to be the same.
  • Pet means praise/reward! Do not pet a fearful dog or a dog that is jumping up on you. When you pet a dog, you say to that dog that what they are doing at that moment is a good thing. You can be with a fearful pup sitting calmly, and gentle praise is given when they show any forward-thinking or confident behaviour.
  • Do not let the pup chew on your hand. Always say "NO" with a firm, low voice, give them something they can chew on, and then praise them with a lighter tone. This goes with any nipping, which is part of puppyhood, so it's best to stay on top of that immediately. If they are extra mouthy and not listening…they need a nap. Put them in a crate for a sleep, like you would an overtired toddler.
  • Place a hanging bell of some sort, or teacher desk type button bell, by your back door and ring it every time you take them out to "do their business." Most dogs will take to this, some don't want to bother you.
  • Even as a little pup, make them sit down nicely before you pet them. Then, give them lots of attention and praise.
  • Have friends over and expose your pup to many different situations, especially in the first 6 months. Prepare your visitors to wait until the pup has settled before they get a pet from them. You could step on the leash and wait it out. If the pup gets all excited again, when the visitor approaches, have them back up and wait for the pup to calm and relax again. Repeat.
  • Leave the leash on the pup in the house so that you can catch them and get after them quicker if they have something in their mouth they shouldn't, or stop jumping on people or furniture when not invited…etc.
  • Do not give a pup or dog a command you cannot make them follow up on, so leave them on a leash. You'll be able to haul them in for a "Come!" with lots of praise!
  • Do not repeat commands. Say it once, and then if they don't do it, make it happen without repeating the command. Then, praise lightly when they are doing it. If they do the command without needing help, then lots of praise/treats/food.
  • Tie the pup to your belt loop if you're busy with other things and can't watch them so they don't sneak off to mess in your home. Otherwise, put them in their kennel.
  • Don't run to the kennel to greet your pup; get them excited when returning home. Ignore the pup for the first minute and then quietly let them out. This helps prevent separation anxiety. Also, when you do let them out, do not let them push their way out. They should stay in the crate with the door open and exit on command. In their eyes, they see you as being in charge, and they are also calmer when coming out.
  • Puppy classes help with socializing your pup in a safe environment. Training starts with your pup from the moment you meet it. If you are having issues, ask for help! Problems do not resolve on their own and can grow into multifaceted issues down the road. Training is a lifestyle! You can start all your commands early. Remember, their attention span is small, and you should not expect perfection, but the introduction of the idea is enormous. You can perfect it later.
  • I want the people who adopt my pups to be responsible and raise well-behaved, good representations of the breed. There is always more to learn, and every puppy you have in your lifetime will be different from your last. If you're having trouble with your pup, please let me know earlier than later. I may be able to help you directly or help you find someone or some resource that can help.